9 Things That Happen When You Homestead

If you're considering becoming a homesteader, raising livestock, or taking part in any sort of farm-like activities, let me first warn you about 9 things that are almost guaranteed to happen when you do:

1. You will become the main source of info about all things homesteading/farming to everyone you know. 

You probably know several other homestead-minded people, since we tend to seek each other out, but it's a pretty exclusive club. Only the really cool kids are allowed in, and let's face it -- most of your friends just aren't that cool. I'm just layin' down the facts, Ma'am, just the facts. But those of your friends who are that cool will come to you when they are getting started, aren't very experienced yet, and need advice.

2. You will also get tagged in every video or picture on Facebook of cute baby livestock antics.

It will seem inexplicable to you, but most people actually don't own livestock. Some people don't even like them -- shocking, I know.  There's a pretty good chance that you may be the only livestock owner some of your friends and family know. As such, you're the first one they think of when a cute goat picture pops onto their news feed. It's good that there's no such thing as too many cute baby animals.

3. You will realize that the vast majority of people are uneducated about things like the facts of life, where our food comes from, and other things that will be (un)common sense to you. 

I don't mean this in a disrespectful way. It's a huge failing of our education. Once upon a time when most people produced the majority of their own food, homestead wisdom was common place. Now it's a rarity. The fact is that way too many people don't know simple things like why cows make milk, where eggs come from, or that most breeds of pigs can reach a mature weight of 500+ pounds. 

You will be met with a lot of ignorance, sometimes from potential customers, sometimes from people who own livestock and don't do enough research, sometimes from complete strangers, and sometimes from family and friends. These situations will leave you scratching your head, but it will also give you a desire to educate the uninformed (and sometimes misinformed) masses!

4. You will become immune to a number of, shall we say, "unique" smells.

Ah, the sweet smell of the barnyard in the morning. Manure. Compost. Buck stank (aka eau de male goat urine and scent glands). Horse sweat. Human sweat. Hay. Straw. Dust. Fly attractant. Various medical supplies, such as salves. You will eventually stop noticing such smells, but remember that those around you will not! Here's a helpful guide for when it's safe to go out without showering after working on the farm (click to view larger):

5. You will constantly be learning.

It doesn't matter how long you've been doing something, there is always more to learn. Just when you think you've got a pretty good handle on things, life will throw you another curve ball. This is a good thing, though, because you will get really good at researching and you will make a lot of connections with mentors, vets, and otherwise more experienced people than yourself who will help you along the way. No matter how smart or experienced you are, there is always someone who knows something you don't and always something you haven't experienced yet! 

Thankfully it's fun to learn in most cases, but some lessons will be learned the hard way. Those are the times when you just have to stick what you've learned in your back pocket and move forward.

6. You will find hay in unexpected places.

Your hair. Your bed. Your underwear/bra. Your shoes. I've even looked down to see hay floating in my water glass. It's impossible to keep the stuff under control! This is especially unpleasant for those of us with mild hay allergies, because it also gets in your nose and on your skin. On particularly bad days you will be blowing hay particles out of your nose.

7. "Normal" food starts to taste bad.

Pasteurized homogenized milk? Ewwww. Refrigerated eggs with pale yellow yolks? No thanks. Anything that comes in a box? Homemade is so much better. And let's be honest here -- nothing will ever compare to the taste of a fresh, fully ripe melon right off the vine... All that under-ripe, shipped-in produce just pales in comparison. 

This applies to other store bought items as well. There are few things you can't make yourself (or buy direct from a person or farm) that isn't of better quality than the goods that fill store shelves. We haven't used store-bought soap in years!

Of course, that doesn't mean that you'll never order a pizza or head to your favorite Mexican restaurant for supper at the end of a long day. There will always be days when you don't want to cook!

8. Your idea of normal conversation will not be what most would consider normal. 

It's not unusual to discuss various bodily functions, body parts, or other unusual or sometimes even gross topics. You will lose all boundaries and language filters when it comes to the things that go on with your livestock. Who cares if you're eating that pizza we talked about earlier? If it's on your mind, it's most likely going to come out of your mouth. And why are people so bothered by words like "testicles" anyway? It's just a natural body part, after all.

The good news is that if any of your friends are in the medical field, they can easily commiserate with you. They see worse things on a daily basis than you will ever see on a farm. *shudders*

9. You will realize how blessed you are to live on farm, big or small. 

Whether you live on one acre or a hundred, whether you consider yourself a farmer, gardener, homesteader, or something in between...you are one of the lucky ones. That feeling of gratitude will never go away, because you have way more blessings than you can count. 

Cheers 

Thoughts while Waiting on Joy (Nigerian Color Genetics)

As Joy's due date nears (end of June/early July), I am of course nervous, but I'm also really curious to see what her kids will look like! There is always that anticipation -- bucks or does? how many? -- but Joy's kidding presents a unique opportunity in the color genetics department. Joy is a black goat with minimal white, so genetically speaking she is only able to pass on black (or, very rarely, recessive red) and her white patches to her kids. That may sound boring, so if you're wondering what could possibly be so interesting about a goat who can only pass on the gene for black, let me explain:

Please bear with me here. I find genetics endlessly fascinating, but I will admit that they're a little over my head. So I'm going to avoid the fancy jargon for the most part. Not many people are familiar with those terms, and there's a very good chance I would use some incorrectly anyway. I'm not a geneticist, so let's just keep it simple for everyone's sake! First, I will try to briefly and simply cover the basics of what I'm talking about so that things make a little sense.

The Basics as I understand them: Each goat has two copies of a gene that determines their color or pattern, one from each parent. Recessive genes are genes that require two copies (one from each parent) in order to be visibly expressed on the goat. Dominant genes are genes that only require a single copy in order to be visibly expressed. If a goat inherits a dominant gene from one parent and a recessive from the other, the dominant gene will be the one to show up in the goat's appearance. These color genes are located on the "agouti locus," which is basically a place in the genetic code that holds the genes that determine color/pattern.

Other things like the specific shade of a color or whether or not the goat has white areas are determined by different genes in different places. For example, the buckskin pattern would be determined by these color genes we're talking about whereas the shade of buckskin (light, dark, mahogany, etc) and any white on the buckskin goat (spots, belt, overlay, roaning, etc) are not. 

What'cha hidin' in there, Joy?

So, about that black gene. In fancy terms, Joy has two copies of the black gene on her agouti locus. This is true of all black goats, because black is a recessive gene. That means that in order for a kid to be born black, both parents must have supplied a copy of the black gene. This is how I determined earlier this year that my buck Bazinga (a red chamoise) and my doe Sandy (a buckskin with white) both carry a copy of the black gene when they produced a black kid. 

This is also means that all black goats have two copies of the black gene, meaning that they can't pass on any other color. Black goats bred to black goats will always produce black goats, and any kid with a black parent is guaranteed to carry at least one black gene, which will be masked by another color unless they also inherit a black gene from their other parent.

Is your head spinning yet? Good, mine too. Let's continue!

Since black is recessive, that means that if Joy has a black kid, then Diddy (a buckskin with white) is also carrying a black gene. In addition, any other colors produced by the pairing must come from Diddy. Basically, whatever other color or pattern may be lurking behind Diddy's buckskin (which is a dominant gene, meaning that any goat that carries that pattern will express it), breeding him to Joy has the potential to reveal it. If they produce a gold kid, for example, then I know that Diddy carries both a buckskin and a gold gene. I don't expect that to happen -- I'm not even sure if it could, since I'm not sure if gold is dominant or recessive -- but I'm just using that as an example.

So what do I actually expect to happen?

Diddy, the daddy-to-be.

Well, I think I am most likely to get black or buckskin kids, probably with at least a little white since both parents are carrying white. However, since Diddy's sire is a chamoise, I would not be too surprised for that pattern to be produced, too. Diddy also has roaning, so that's a possibility as well. 

To be honest, I don't care if those kids come out green! I just want everything to go smoothly and everyone to be healthy. Heck, she can give me more bucklings if she wants. See if I care! Hah! 

In all seriousness, I just find it really interesting and fun to learn about genetics and to play the color guessing game. The more I learn about Nigerian color genetics, the more accurately I can guess. For example, I now know that if I breed Bazinga to a black goat, I will only get black or chamoise kids. (I should have known that already, since he has a black parent, but that didn't occur to me until this blog post...)

They still manage to throw curve balls, though, and I don't think we will ever be able to really predict what the genetics will throw our way when it comes to Nigerians! For example, this year I had two heavily roaned kids out of parents who showed no visible roaning at all. Go figure! 

I guess all that's left to say is this: if you want to know what colors are hiding in your goats, get a black goat for your breeding program (solid if you can find one!). And if you're interested in learning more about this subject, this article is a good starting place. In addition, this website is a great source for learning all the various colors and patterns of Nigerians.

We're all going to have a good laugh if Joy does have a gold kid...

Cheers

Goats Are Not Pets

Uh oh. I think I just opened a can of worms.

Before you get too angry, let me clarify: I said goats are not pets. I did not say that goats cannot be kept as pets. But even if you own goats that you keep as pets...goats are not pets.

Goats are livestock.

I love my goats, as most goat owners do. I enjoy spending time with them and if I'm honest, I'd rather own goats than cats or dogs, if I were forced to choose. Goats can absolutely be wonderful companion animals or even therapy animals, and there are many people who own goats just because they like them. At the end of the day, though, how we choose to own goats doesn't change the fact that goats are livestock.

Here are some cold hard facts about goats:

They don't belong in your living room. Would you keep a cow in your living room? A horse? What about a camel? Just because goats are smaller than other species of livestock doesn't mean that they should live in your home.  

Oh, I've had goats in my house before. I'm not saying they should never be taken inside for any reason. I'm just saying that goats deserve to live a life with more space and freedom than one cooped up inside a house. Also, if you value your breakable possessions such as those lovely ceramic candle holders you keep on your coffee table, goats are not a good choice to keep as inside pets. They will tap dance all over them. Goats like to climb, jump, be up high, rub on things, and chew on things. Your furniture is no exception. 

(For the record, I think house chickens are pretty silly, too. Where is that poor chicken going to scratch for bugs, grit, and grass? How is she to take her dust baths? What exactly are you doing to keep that chicken poop from going all over your home and infecting your family with salmonella??)

Goats need a goat friend. You see it all the time online. People think that their goat is happy in a single-goat home until suddenly the goat starts exhibiting troublesome behavior because it's lonely and bored. Goats are herd animals. They need at least one other creature of their own kind. Look at herd animals in the wild, like bison, deer, and wild horses. Do you ever see them hanging out with coyotes or living on their own?  

Goats are the only animals that can speak goat.   

I won't even go into the dangers of allowing goats to spend unsupervised time with any dogs other than the guardian breeds that have been developed for centuries to live with, and not eat, livestock. Dogs are predators. Goats are prey. It only takes a split second for the prey drive to be triggered in your dog, and they can and will seriously injure or kill your goats. I find that most people just don't want to accept that Fido and Fluffy will happily attack prey species like rabbits, chickens, and goats, but it happens all. the. time. 

Goats don't really belong in the city. This is a tough one. On the one hand, farm animals belong on farms. They need space to roam, they create messes not usually associated with pet species (there's a big difference between mucking out a stall and scooping up a pile or two of poo each day), and they can often attract flies even under the best circumstances. It's just the nature of the beast.

However, I also understand that goats can live happy and healthy lives in someone's backyard. Although the ideal situation is for them to have the opportunity to browse on fresh plant life, that isn't always possible even for goats living on acreage. My own goats don't always have access to browse. 

For those who want to feed their family goat milk or raw dairy in areas where it's impossible to buy, keeping goats is certainly appealing. Goats are relatively quiet, not too messy, and only the intact males stink if you practice good hygiene in their living areas. There are absolutely valid arguments for keeping goats inside city limits under the right circumstances. I do have to ask, however, that when petitioning your city, please don't argue to have goats reclassified as pets. Simply argue for a change in the rules that allows for small livestock such as chickens and goats. 

Goats are high maintenance. Oh sure, you get used to it after you own them for a while and it's certainly not prohibitive. It all becomes routine. Still, goats have a certain set of particular needs that most pet species do not. I'll just mention a few:

• They're escape artists. 
• If you're milking them and they don't have kids nursing, you have to keep milking them until you dry them off. You can't skip a day.
• They need mineral supplementation (loose minerals 24/7, usually periodic supplementation of copper and/or selenium). These minerals can be toxic to other species.
• They have sensitive digestive systems and are prone to bloat when their systems are upset by sudden changes in diet.
• While there seems to be a small animal vet on every corner, and an equine vet in every town, it can be very difficult to find a vet who is experienced in the care of small ruminants.
• They need their hooves trimmed regularly.
• Goats are prone to potentially deadly internal parasites. They can also get lice or mites, especially in the winter.
• And the list goes on. 

Goats are edible. Most animals are technically edible, but what I mean is that goats are commonly considered to be food in this country. When you get tired of your pet goats, or your city makes you get rid of them, or you realize they're more work than you thought...chances are good that they may wind up on someone's dinner plate. This is especially true of wethers, who don't have a purpose that a breeding goat could not fill. You may be able to find a pet home, but it's entirely possible that even if you do, that pet home will end up selling down the road as well. Trying to make sure that your "pet" goats don't become someone else's chevon when you can no longer care for them isn't really possible. In addition, there will always be more male goats born than needed. If you're considering breeding your goats, keep in mind that males can be hard to sell. You may end up either stuck with a bunch of male goats you don't need or using them for meat either in your own home or someone else's. 

We all have those special goats we could never eat or sell for meat, but let's call a spade a spade and a goat a goat. Goats fall under the category of food animals. This is because they are animals that produce food. Pets are animals that do not or cannot produce food (at least in this country). Therefore, goats are livestock.

As goat lovers, we should be encouraging people to recognize all the incredible potential behind goats. That means we also should promote the consumption of goat milk products and chevon/cabrito! The better the market is for these items, the better the goat market will be in general. Excess goat kids will be easier to sell, and goat products will be easier to find.

There are many breeds of livestock that are in danger of extinction for the simple fact that no one wants to eat them. One reason I chose Nigerian Dwarfs back in 2008 is because they were also threatened by low numbers at that time. Thankfully, their populations have recovered. However, what often happens when a breed experiences a sudden boom in popularity is that the popularity eventually starts to fall again. The breeders who only got in it for the cash, or because it was in vogue, sell out. The market becomes flooded, because there are too many goats and not enough buyers. Difficulty selling forces some of the long-time breeders out of the business, and some leave just because they feel it's time to move on. Suddenly the breed is back to square one.

Does anyone remember when ostrich meat was going to be the next big thing? Or designer dogs? What about emus? Llamas? I remember all of these, and there are even more fads that I'm sure my parents and grandparents can recall. I don't want to see goats follow in the same footsteps as these predecessors. The fact is that goats are very "in" right now, and for good reason. However, their popularity among pet owners, breeders seeking to make a quick buck (no pun intended), and well-intentioned hobbyist may not last long term. After the new wears off, the only thing that will keep goats thriving will be their value as livestock animals.

So even if you own your goats strictly as pets -- and it's fine if you do! -- remember that we should always be seeking to do what is best for the goats...not ourselves. Let's not forget that these very fun, very cute critters are livestock. Most of them have a job to do.

Cheers!

Rearranging the Herd (Currently For Sale)

I have a very small herd of Nigerian Dwarves (and a single fabulous MiniMancha). While most people sell off adult animals to downsize, I have made the decision to sell a few of mine for a different reason. Over the years, my herd has maintained a relatively small genetic pool. This has occurred in part due to the fact that the majority of my first goats came from the same herd, and also because I have had the same buck for several years. Because of how small my herd is, I can't justify keeping so many closely related animals. I am currently on a mission to diversify my herd genetics over time and change direction in a couple of areas with my herd. In order to do this, I have to cut back on my number of related animals. And so, this brings me to this blog post, which is a current sales list as of this moment. I have these animals listed on my website of course, but I wanted to also post them on my facebook page and making a blog post is the easiest way to do so. Please note that while prices are firm, I will discount on multiple purchases. I also will not hold an animal without a deposit.

First on the list, and the most difficult to part with, is Beetlejuice. He is AGS and NDGA registered and polled. Born 9/2008.

S: CHW BW Captain Jack Sparrow

SS: ARMCH Twin Creeks BH Baywatch ++*S E

SD: CHW AR Once in a Blue Moon, 2xGCH dry, 1x RsCH Jr

D: Piddlin Acres Piroette

DS: ARMCH Green Gate King Midas +S

DD: Goodwood Will O the Wisp E

Beetle was my very first buck and has been a wonderful buck to own, very friendly and typically well mannered. His kids have all inherited his friendly personality, even the ones born to unfriendly dams. He is a paternal grandson of ARMCH Twin Creeks BH Baywatch ++*S E and maternal grandson to ARMCH Green Gate King Midas +S. Baywatch was the sire to nine Master Champions, including MCH Twin Creeks Fantasea 3*D *M E. His pedigree includes Piddlin Acres, Goodwood, Flatrocks, and Gay-Mor and can be seen on his page on my website (click his name above). 

Pictures don't do him justice, in part because I am not very good at clipping and in part because I rarely have someone to "pose" the goats for me and he usually wants to be underfoot. The only problem I have ever had with him is that he tends to take rut hard. Although he otherwise stays in awesome condition on just browse and hay, I have to keep an eye on his condition during that season. I would prefer an experienced owner for him for this reason.

I am only selling Beetle because I have retained his son as a herdsire and also have his daughter and another closely related doe in my herd. $300.

Next is Licorice. NDGA registered and and also polled, Licorice is a 2010 son of Beetlejuice and, like all of Beetle's kids, very friendly. He is a beautiful dark chocolate color when his hair is not shaved. He has the same incredible depth and width of his dam, Brownie. Licorice is one that I absolutely have to sell, because I just can't use him in my herd. I am phasing out the NDGA only goats, to consolidate my paperwork to just AGS and ADGA. I also have his dam, his sire, two half sisters, and a half brother in the herd. In such a small herd there is just no room for a buck I can't use. I have reduced his price multiple times. He is now available at $100.

Last, for the moment, is Sandy. NDGA.
S: Pride of Texas Speedy Gonzalez 2x RsCH Buck, 1x RsCH Jr 

D: Lazy Q Bodacious Chocolate Brownie

SS:  Woodhaven Farms Pepe Le Pew MCH/PGCH

SD: Lost Valley Andrea Gail

DS:  Milky Whey's Apollo

DD: Moe Moe Acres Ashley Star

Sandy, born in 2007, was one of the first two does I purchased. She is not a friendly goat, but she has actually improved somewhat since I purchased her, when she was completely wild. She is one I have debated selling before because of her personality, but sentimentality always won out. However, as I am not phasing out NDGA goats, and trying to limit my number of closely related animals, she has not made the keeper cut. This is another situation where I just have too many relative -- her dam, her half siblings. 

Sandy was exposed to a buck and should be due to kid in late August or early September. I have not had her blood tested, but I believe that she is indeed pregnant. She will be available after she kids, either when the kids are weaned or earlier if a buyer chooses to purchase them all as a package. After she kids I will train her to be milked, but I would not necessarily recommend her as a milker at this time based on her personality. I will be better able to assess her potential as a milker when I start training her, of course. She will be $350. 

I also have a couple of friendly wethers available as well, $75 each, $50 each as a pair, or free with an intact animal. 

If you are interested in one of these, please email at tiramarfarms (at) gmail (dot) com. Follow the farm Facebook page if you want to be the first to know when babies are born and new animals become available.

Thanks for reading! 

Cheers

July in the Garden

Happy Fourth of July! I hope everyone has a safe and fun celebration this weekend. My family and I went to watch our town's fireworks display and ended up finding the perfect spot right underneath the show. It was spectacular, albeit very loud. What better way to celebrate our country than a beautiful light show?

Anyway, we've reached the middle of the season. The garden has slowed down now that everything is planted. There's quite a bit of weeding to do if it will stay dry long enough, which you shall see in the images, but the rush to get things in the ground is over. This spring's kids are almost old enough to go their new homes, and the fall birthing season is still a couple of months away. The garden isn't ready for harvest just yet. All in all, things have hit their stride and will be much lower maintenance for a few weeks...at least in theory. :)

Our poor little bottle tree is sparse looking! We'll have it fleshed out soon, though.

We've had some trouble with our tomatoes. We lost a few plants to Southern Blight/white mold, and have been picking leaves off of others as they get affected with blight. The warm wet weather we've had is what fuels fungus such as blight. Milk washes, baking soda drenches, and apple cider vinegar water have helped some but it's an ongoing battle. We also lost our first, biggest tomato to a renegade hen who jumped the fence. They're making again, though, so I'm hopeful we'll at least end up with enough for one batch of salsa!

He was going to be a pretty one, but alas. The chicken beat us to it.

Can you believe this puny plant, which has really struggled with blight, has a tomato?

The lettuce has bolted, so its season is over until the fall. So pretty, though, isn't it? It could practically be an ornamental.

The bush peas are doing the best, as always. Peas are pretty fool-proof. We've never had a failed crop with them. They're blooming and vining and making tiny pea pods. We'll be having fresh peas for supper in no time!

Our bush lima beans are doing well, too. Lima beans are my favorite legume.

We planted a later crop of pole beans and peas, and they are coming up well...but so are the weeds!

Our cantaloupe is blooming. The first blossoms won't make fruit, but it's a sign that my favorite melons are on the way!

I planted a few sweet potato plants, which is a first for us. They haven't bloomed yet but are doing well, aside from the weeds that are over taking them! Yikes!

Okra is growing like a weed, too...but it also needs to be weeded, as you can see.

Can you spy the volunteer watermelon?

Our watermelon got planted late, but it's coming on. Our garden retains moisture well, but sometimes in a rainy season that means complications in planting and weeding!

We also planted an Arkansas Black Apple tree this year. It won't produce for a few years. We may not even be living on this land by the time it's in full swing, but it's never a bad investment to plant a tree.

Our pumpkin patch, which I don't have pictures of, is doing really well. However, it is the worst for the weeds. Right after we planted the rains came and didn't let up for a while, and the weeds just took off. We'll be tackling it this weekend, and working on weeding and mulching the rest throughout the weed.

We also have some new life here at Tiramar. Our broody hen just hatched several (I just realized I haven't even counted them! Whoops!) pheasant eggs and one chicken egg. (I put a chicken egg under her with the pheasant eggs just in case, so that she wouldn't reject the smaller eggs.) One hatched out weak and has had to spend a lot of time indoors. I'm not sure he will make it. I tried returning him to mama, but he just wasn't strong enough yet and I had to remove him again. A second chick had a really rough hatch and spent the first 24 hours indoors, but I have since returned him. He is doing so well that I can't even tell which one he is at this point. These guys will stay with our hen in the off-ground brooder for a while and then be transferred to a tractor, where they will finish growing out. I'm hoping a couple might be butchering age in time for Christmas dinner. Hopefully the chicken chick, which came from our RIR rooster and a Black Copper Maran egg, will be a hen!

Yes, they are in a modified laundry basket. Their wooden nest box ended
up not being big enough, so we had to improvise!

You can somewhat tell in this image how much bigger the chicken chick is.

Is this one giving me the stink eye?

Clever camouflage, but I can still see you.

Now we weed, and then we wait for the harvest and for the time to start planting our fall crops. Fall goat kids should be on the way, too. We won't be in a lull for long!

Cheers!

5 Tips on How to Raise Grass-Based Dairy Goats

If you clicked on this, you are probably already familiar with the amazing health benefits of grass-fed dairy and meats.  If you're not, click each of those links to learn just a little bit about why pastured animal products are so much better than the typical grain fed foods you find on most grocery shelves. Once you've got that out of the way, you can come back here and learn how to implement a pasture-based system for your own dairy goats! These tips can be applied to other animals, too.

First of all, while most sources will say that 100% grass fed is the way to go, it's really not a feasible system for most small livestock growers. My own animals are not 100% grass fed. However, it is extremely possible to have grass be the basis of your dairy goat's diet while allowing good quality grain -- preferably without soy -- to take up only a very small percentage.

So, without further ado, here are my tips for transitioning your goats to a pasture based system:


1. Find good quality hay. Outside of the growing season, hay will be the main ingredient of your goats' diets. Your hay will essentially be the pasture for your goats, so it is important to find a good source of hay. Your producer should be able to consistently provide you with hay that is not overly dry (and therefore nutritionally dead) or too wet (wet hay will mold or even catch fire). It should also not contain too many unpalatable, stalky pieces or undesirable weeds and should be free from toxic plants or leaves. Your best bet is to build a rapport with a reputable hay provider and purchase from the same person year after year. Many of the best producers, particularly during dry years, will have a waiting list or sell out quickly, so stay on top of this and reserve your hay early in the season.

2. Rotate your pastures. A rotational grazing system is the best way to make optimal use of your land and to keep your goats healthy. The ideal system will actually employ two unrelated livestock species, one of which will graze after the other. For example, you may run horses or pigs on pasture after goats (more on that in the next paragraph). Regardless of whether your system is multi-species, you will need enough pasture areas to allow the land to lay empty between uses. Allowing the land to rest in between periods of grazing allows the grass to grow back to its ideal height -- above 4" -- before its next use. This also prevents your land from becoming bare and washing away into gullies, and it helps prevent your livestock from becoming reinfected with internal parasites.

As your goats browse, they shed parasite eggs and larvae onto the ground. The majority of these little nasties stay below 4" (which is as high as the barber pole worm larvae -- the most common internal parasite in adult goats -- can climb). By rotating your goats off of pasture that has been mostly consumed to or below 4", you prevent them from picking up more parasites. It also helps to graze a different family of livestock species behind your goats, such as pigs or horses. These species do not share many parasites with goats and will be able to "clean" the field. They will also eat down the grass that your goats likely ignored in favor of juicy weeds.

How long you are able to graze your goats in each field and let your other field(s) rest depends on the number of goats you are grazing. A low stocking number will be able to stay on one field longer, while a higher stocking rate will mean rotating them through faster (and may also require more fields through which to rotate them). A good beginning rule of thumb is to allow at least a month for fields to rest in between use. This book by Carol Ekarius is an excellent resource for learning more about rotational grazing practices:

3. Give your goats proper mineral supplementation. Mineral deficiencies can cause all sorts of problems for goats. Goats should always have free choice access to a high quality loose mineral formulated specifically for goats. Do not buy sheep/goat mineral, as sheep cannot have additional copper without suffering from toxicity, while goats absolutely need copper to have a healthy reproductive system, parasite resistance, healthy hair coat, and overall good health and immunity. I prefer to use Sweetlix Meat Maker (non-medicated, and yes, it works just fine for milking animals, too!). Goats have soft tongues and no upper teeth, so a loose mineral is necessary for them to consume enough, and the mineral should be the only source of salt or minerals available. 

Many areas of the country are also either low in copper or high in another element that binds with copper and prevents its appropriate absorption. For this reason, many goat breeders must supplement copper specifically, typically by administering a copper bolus every 4-6 months. It is also a common practice to supplement selenium through selenium/vit e gel. In my own herd, I administer copper boli every four months and selenium/vit e gel to prior to breeding and one month before kidding in pregnant does. This system works very well for me, and the results from the copper supplementation are incredible. Signs of copper deficiency include "fish tail" (balding of the tip of the tail); dull, faded, or rough coats; failure to shed the winter coat; failure to conceive or carry pregnancy to term; low birth rates; difficulty resisting parasite infestation; and, in severe cases, continual decline resulting in death. Selenium deficiency causes white muscle disease, failure to conceive, low birth rates, impaired vision, weight loss, and kids born with weak legs that may fold under at the pasterns and/or an inability to stand. 

To learn if your area is deficient in copper or selenium, check out these mineral maps, ask reputable breeders or livestock veterinarians in your area, and watch for the signs of deficiency. You can also have your forage and water checked for mineral levels (check for both the minerals you need and the minerals that will bind with them and prevent absorption, such as sulfur) and, in a worst case scenario, have your deceased goat's liver biopsied for mineral levels.

This is a map of copper levels in the US. Remember that other minerals also bind with copper to prevent absorption. Where your hay or pellets come from matters as well. My location is in the blue, but I still have to supplement copper regularly.

4. Choose your feed wisely. Lactating does and does in late pregnancy have higher nutritional needs that dry does, wethers, or bucks. They will need supplemental feed beyond grass hay and browse in order to maintain their body condition and produce milk. Alfalfa, which is technically a legume and not a grass, is needed for them to meet their bodies' high demand for calcium. Some areas of the country can find alfalfa hay, but it can be difficult to find in some locations. In my location, the best source for alfalfa is in pellet form, and this is what I feed my girls when they are producing. Choose a brand with pellets that have a low dust amount and a good green color (not a dull brownish shade). 

In most cases, producing does also need some amount of grain. Grain will be a small portion of the diet, because while the does will only receive grain once or twice a day on the milk stand, they will be eating browse or grass hay all day long. Appropriate amounts of grain are not evil! Supplementing an animal with grain when it makes sense and is necessary is not going to be detrimental to the animal or to you; in fact, it will be beneficial because it will keep the animal in good condition and support a higher level of production. This is not the same as sticking your goats on dry lot and feeding them nothing but grain, which will definitely impact the health of the animal and the quality of the milk.

You should still choose good sources of grain. I prefer to stay away from soy, and so I have transitioned my girls from a premade goat pellet to a hand made mix. I am following the recipe #3 on the Land of Havilah website. I recommend staying away from soy for a number of reasons, but if mixing your own is out of the question for you, you can look for organic livestock feeds or soy-free brands. If this is also impossible for you, avoid sweet feeds with high molasses contents and provide a pellet formulated for goats. Grain of any kind in too high of quantities is bad for the rumen and can cause excess weight gain and acidosis. Grain should also not be fed to bucks or wethers in order to prevent urinary calculi. The generally recommended ratio of alfalfa to grain is 3:1. A good rule of thumb for feeding grain is to feed 1lb for every 3lbs of milk your doe is producing. This should be adjusted to how well your doe is maintaining her body condition. If she is dropping weight (and is not suffering from a parasite overload or illness), she needs more; if she is getting fat, she needs less. Be very careful not to start giving grain too early or too much in pregnancy as this can lead to over-sized kids and ketosis and/or hypocalcemia. 

I personally start giving very small amounts of grain in the last week or two of pregnancy and then gradually increase after the doe gives birth. While milking, I allow my does to eat as much alfalfa pellets as they want on the stand (unless they're really going overboard or gaining too much weight) alongside the appropriate amount of grain. 

Browsing is fun for all ages! 

5. Make changes slowly. All dietary changes for goats (or any animal) should be made slowly. Goats have a delicate digestive system and can suffer from dangerous and potentially deadly bloat is they are transitioned from one diet to another too quickly. If your goats have not previously been on pasture, introduce them gradually by allowing them to be out for 30 minutes to an hour the first day and increasing that time by 30 minutes to an hour each day until they are spending the entire day on pasture. At that point you can continue to lock them in the barn at night for increased safety or you can allow them to remain out 24/7 as long as they have appropriate shelter available. Always provide your goats with free choice baking soda to settle their rumen if it becomes upset. They will eat baking soda instinctively if they need to alter their rumen ph. Also know the signs of bloat and be prepared to treat it. If your goats seem a little off after a change in feed but aren't showing signs of bloat yet, massage their left side (the location of the rumen) until they begin to burp and pass gas. Some loose stool after the introduction to new, rich forage is not something to be concerned about unless it is excessive or does not go away. Just limit their time out a little and increase it more slowly and their stool should return to normal within a day.

Goats will eat many weeds that other species, like horses, typically will not. 

Bonus! 

6. Check your pastures for toxic plants. The toxicity of many plants for goats is debated. Many, including myself, believe that the level of exposure greatly impacts whether or not some types of plants thought to be toxic will harm your goats. However, you should be aware of toxic plants in your area and know that some -- like Yew or the leaves of stone fruit trees (cherry, peach, plum) -- are deadly even in small amounts. Watch out for these plants and do not graze goats in areas that contain them. Also beware of leaving your goats on pasture too long, because the plants they might have avoided eating at first -- which may or may not be toxic to them -- will become more appetizing as the other options diminish. Fiasco Farms website has a good article on toxic plants. You can check with your extension office or do a search to find what toxic plants are native to your particular area. Do not allow people to feed your goats clippings (and avoid doing so yourself) unless you are absolutely sure that the plant is safe.

Having pasture-based goats is very simple once you are set up for it. It's truly a natural lifestyle for the goats, and they will be very content when eating browse. Even though you should provide grass hay during the summer for them to munch during barn rest or rain (goats need to eat frequently to keep their rumen going), they will eat very little when they have ample browse. You may even be surprised to find that your milking does voluntarily eat less grain when they are on pasture! :)

20 Happy Things

Inspired by a blog post over at Antiquity Oaks, I have decided to make a list of 20 things that make me happy (in no particular order).

1. Sunday afternoon naps

2. Polled kids -- less disbudding!

3. Time spent with family

4. Beautiful spring flowers

4.5 Which sometimes hide little critters

5. Those special animals that sneak into our hearts (even though it's hard to say goodbye)

6. Unexpected blessings

7. Watching lightning bugs

8. Writing things my heart wants to write (rather than writing for assignments)

9. Baby goats!

10. Really, baby animals of any kind

11. Perfect weather days

12. Lazy rainy days

13. Big thunderstorms -- so long as no one is hurt

14. Connecting with like-minded folk

15. Cold glasses of raw milk

16. Gardens growing

17. Shopping at farmer's markets for local goods

18. Awesome yard sale finds, like old sewing machines

19. The simple pleasure of cheesy grits

20. Finding a good movie on TV