Lessons from Nancy

Believe it or not, I actually get a chance to read fiction novels from time to time. Sure, summer is arguably the busiest season for a homestead, but sometimes I just can't help but pick up a book that isn't going to teach me something...at least not in the same way as nonfiction books.

As you may have guessed by my title, my recent books of choice have been the Nancy Drew series. I read this series first as a child, and I decided it was time to revisit the stories I loved back then. Books tend to reveal more when they are read more than once, and Nancy Drew is no exception. I think there are a lot of life lessons we can learn from Nancy, and I decided to share a few of them here, including a few that I feel correspond directly to homesteading.

1. Nancy is always kind. Even to complete strangers she meets along the way, she stops to lend a helping hand.  If someone asks her for help, even if it might put her in danger or inconvenience her, she is there to do what she can. Nancy does for the least of these, and never asks for anything but friendship in return.
2. She avoids gossiping, but knows when to listen to it. There's a fine line between engaging in the spreading of rumors and simply engaging in conversation -- a line all of us have crossed, if we're honest -- but Nancy always stays on the right side. However, she doesn't simply avoid it and walk away. Nancy knows how to listen, and not just to lend a sympathetic ear. She picks up on important details that can help her down the road. Oftentimes we can benefit by simply listening to what others say and keeping our own mouths shut.
3. She is honest. Nancy does not lie or hide the truth, and this makes her a trustworthy person in whom people feel comfortable confiding. People know that Nancy will not deceive them or take advantage of them. When they come to her with a problem, she will truly try to solve it, not benefit from it in some way, and she will give her honest opinion and advice. Honesty is the best policy.
4. She has a wide variety of useful skills. Nancy knows how to do just about anything. She is a quick thinker, she is skilled, she can do most things for herself, and she is excellent at troubleshooting when the first trial fails. Nancy is not the type to have others do everything for her. Having a wide skill set and the ability to troubleshoot is absolutely necessary to homesteading, and one of the essences of homesteading is doing things for oneself. To homestead is to develop a variety of useful skills.
5. Nancy knows when to seek counsel. Nancy is a smart girl. As the point above notes, she has no trouble figuring things out on her own or getting stuff done. Yet this does not stop her from seeking out advice when she needs it, whether it be from her father, Hannah Gruen, an authority, or a trusted friend. She is wise enough to recognize that multiple people coming together can solve a problem much faster, and that even the smartest and most self-sufficient folk need some advice now and again. Homesteaders sometimes get caught up in the "I need to do this myself" attitude, but there are times when we do need help. And that is okay.
6. She doesn't let her age or inexperience interfere. Nancy would never be the type of person to make an excuse for anything. Thoughts such as "I'm too young" or "I've never done this before, so I can't do it now" never enter her mind. Instead she faces trouble head on with the certainty that one way or another, alone or with friends, she can accomplish her goals. No excuses. So what if you've never raised chickens before? You can do this.
7. She is brave. I will be the first to admit that I am not going to follow strangers down deserted roads or climb through dark, hidden passageways like Nancy does. Truth be told, some risks really shouldn't be taken, especially alone. There's still a lesson here, though, and it applies amply to homesteading. Homesteading involves risks. "What if I don't get a return on this investment? What if something happens to my livestock? What if my crops fail? What if that [insert large animal here] tramples me?" There are a lot of "what if's," but the one sure thing is that homesteading requires a good helping of hope, faith, and even bravery. Sometimes you just have to dive in and pray it works out.
8. She develops strong, positive relationships. Nancy has a wide network of friends and relatives with whom she has good relationships. She doesn't let being busy keep her from socializing. In fact, she incorporates her work with the development of her relationships in many ways. Homesteading is an isolating lifestyle. (And trust me, I am the worst about being a hermit homesteader.) The work, though usually enjoyable, is time consuming and tiring at times. It's hard to go out for a night on the town with friends when you have to wake up the next morning to milk your goats. And sometimes it's hard to connect with people who don't share your lifestyle. Not everyone understands the desire to homestead or cares to hear homestead-related anecdotes. But connecting with other humans is important not only for our emotional well being, but also to build a network of people to whom we can turn in times of need or share with in times of bounty. We get by with a little help from our friends (and family).
9. Nancy appreciates the great outdoors. She enjoys being active outside, taking hikes, spending time on the lake, or just enjoying nature. In book 2, The Hidden Staircase, Nancy mentions that her father taught her that nature is a great way to clear one's mind. It is such a valuable thing to appreciate nature and enjoy time spent in the outdoors...especially if you homestead. All that garden and livestock time will be spent outdoors, of course, and you will likely find that you enjoy that much more than indoor chores.
10. She never gives up. Nancy embodies tenacity. Even when she's down to nothing, at her wits end, locked in a closet by burglars, or generally in a situation that seems hopeless...she just keeps trying. Those of us who homestead know that some days, months, and even years on a homestead are hard. Sometimes it seems like everything we plant dies, the weeds are overtaking our entire lives, the weather is against us, and/or our livestock just keep having problems, illnesses, injuries, or even deaths. Homesteaders must be tenacious if we are to keep homesteading. Sometimes the going gets tough, but the tough keep going!

5 Tips on How to Raise Grass-Based Dairy Goats

If you clicked on this, you are probably already familiar with the amazing health benefits of grass-fed dairy and meats.  If you're not, click each of those links to learn just a little bit about why pastured animal products are so much better than the typical grain fed foods you find on most grocery shelves. Once you've got that out of the way, you can come back here and learn how to implement a pasture-based system for your own dairy goats! These tips can be applied to other animals, too.

First of all, while most sources will say that 100% grass fed is the way to go, it's really not a feasible system for most small livestock growers. My own animals are not 100% grass fed. However, it is extremely possible to have grass be the basis of your dairy goat's diet while allowing good quality grain -- preferably without soy -- to take up only a very small percentage.

So, without further ado, here are my tips for transitioning your goats to a pasture based system:


1. Find good quality hay. Outside of the growing season, hay will be the main ingredient of your goats' diets. Your hay will essentially be the pasture for your goats, so it is important to find a good source of hay. Your producer should be able to consistently provide you with hay that is not overly dry (and therefore nutritionally dead) or too wet (wet hay will mold or even catch fire). It should also not contain too many unpalatable, stalky pieces or undesirable weeds and should be free from toxic plants or leaves. Your best bet is to build a rapport with a reputable hay provider and purchase from the same person year after year. Many of the best producers, particularly during dry years, will have a waiting list or sell out quickly, so stay on top of this and reserve your hay early in the season.

2. Rotate your pastures. A rotational grazing system is the best way to make optimal use of your land and to keep your goats healthy. The ideal system will actually employ two unrelated livestock species, one of which will graze after the other. For example, you may run horses or pigs on pasture after goats (more on that in the next paragraph). Regardless of whether your system is multi-species, you will need enough pasture areas to allow the land to lay empty between uses. Allowing the land to rest in between periods of grazing allows the grass to grow back to its ideal height -- above 4" -- before its next use. This also prevents your land from becoming bare and washing away into gullies, and it helps prevent your livestock from becoming reinfected with internal parasites.

As your goats browse, they shed parasite eggs and larvae onto the ground. The majority of these little nasties stay below 4" (which is as high as the barber pole worm larvae -- the most common internal parasite in adult goats -- can climb). By rotating your goats off of pasture that has been mostly consumed to or below 4", you prevent them from picking up more parasites. It also helps to graze a different family of livestock species behind your goats, such as pigs or horses. These species do not share many parasites with goats and will be able to "clean" the field. They will also eat down the grass that your goats likely ignored in favor of juicy weeds.

How long you are able to graze your goats in each field and let your other field(s) rest depends on the number of goats you are grazing. A low stocking number will be able to stay on one field longer, while a higher stocking rate will mean rotating them through faster (and may also require more fields through which to rotate them). A good beginning rule of thumb is to allow at least a month for fields to rest in between use. This book by Carol Ekarius is an excellent resource for learning more about rotational grazing practices:

3. Give your goats proper mineral supplementation. Mineral deficiencies can cause all sorts of problems for goats. Goats should always have free choice access to a high quality loose mineral formulated specifically for goats. Do not buy sheep/goat mineral, as sheep cannot have additional copper without suffering from toxicity, while goats absolutely need copper to have a healthy reproductive system, parasite resistance, healthy hair coat, and overall good health and immunity. I prefer to use Sweetlix Meat Maker (non-medicated, and yes, it works just fine for milking animals, too!). Goats have soft tongues and no upper teeth, so a loose mineral is necessary for them to consume enough, and the mineral should be the only source of salt or minerals available. 

Many areas of the country are also either low in copper or high in another element that binds with copper and prevents its appropriate absorption. For this reason, many goat breeders must supplement copper specifically, typically by administering a copper bolus every 4-6 months. It is also a common practice to supplement selenium through selenium/vit e gel. In my own herd, I administer copper boli every four months and selenium/vit e gel to prior to breeding and one month before kidding in pregnant does. This system works very well for me, and the results from the copper supplementation are incredible. Signs of copper deficiency include "fish tail" (balding of the tip of the tail); dull, faded, or rough coats; failure to shed the winter coat; failure to conceive or carry pregnancy to term; low birth rates; difficulty resisting parasite infestation; and, in severe cases, continual decline resulting in death. Selenium deficiency causes white muscle disease, failure to conceive, low birth rates, impaired vision, weight loss, and kids born with weak legs that may fold under at the pasterns and/or an inability to stand. 

To learn if your area is deficient in copper or selenium, check out these mineral maps, ask reputable breeders or livestock veterinarians in your area, and watch for the signs of deficiency. You can also have your forage and water checked for mineral levels (check for both the minerals you need and the minerals that will bind with them and prevent absorption, such as sulfur) and, in a worst case scenario, have your deceased goat's liver biopsied for mineral levels.

This is a map of copper levels in the US. Remember that other minerals also bind with copper to prevent absorption. Where your hay or pellets come from matters as well. My location is in the blue, but I still have to supplement copper regularly.

4. Choose your feed wisely. Lactating does and does in late pregnancy have higher nutritional needs that dry does, wethers, or bucks. They will need supplemental feed beyond grass hay and browse in order to maintain their body condition and produce milk. Alfalfa, which is technically a legume and not a grass, is needed for them to meet their bodies' high demand for calcium. Some areas of the country can find alfalfa hay, but it can be difficult to find in some locations. In my location, the best source for alfalfa is in pellet form, and this is what I feed my girls when they are producing. Choose a brand with pellets that have a low dust amount and a good green color (not a dull brownish shade). 

In most cases, producing does also need some amount of grain. Grain will be a small portion of the diet, because while the does will only receive grain once or twice a day on the milk stand, they will be eating browse or grass hay all day long. Appropriate amounts of grain are not evil! Supplementing an animal with grain when it makes sense and is necessary is not going to be detrimental to the animal or to you; in fact, it will be beneficial because it will keep the animal in good condition and support a higher level of production. This is not the same as sticking your goats on dry lot and feeding them nothing but grain, which will definitely impact the health of the animal and the quality of the milk.

You should still choose good sources of grain. I prefer to stay away from soy, and so I have transitioned my girls from a premade goat pellet to a hand made mix. I am following the recipe #3 on the Land of Havilah website. I recommend staying away from soy for a number of reasons, but if mixing your own is out of the question for you, you can look for organic livestock feeds or soy-free brands. If this is also impossible for you, avoid sweet feeds with high molasses contents and provide a pellet formulated for goats. Grain of any kind in too high of quantities is bad for the rumen and can cause excess weight gain and acidosis. Grain should also not be fed to bucks or wethers in order to prevent urinary calculi. The generally recommended ratio of alfalfa to grain is 3:1. A good rule of thumb for feeding grain is to feed 1lb for every 3lbs of milk your doe is producing. This should be adjusted to how well your doe is maintaining her body condition. If she is dropping weight (and is not suffering from a parasite overload or illness), she needs more; if she is getting fat, she needs less. Be very careful not to start giving grain too early or too much in pregnancy as this can lead to over-sized kids and ketosis and/or hypocalcemia. 

I personally start giving very small amounts of grain in the last week or two of pregnancy and then gradually increase after the doe gives birth. While milking, I allow my does to eat as much alfalfa pellets as they want on the stand (unless they're really going overboard or gaining too much weight) alongside the appropriate amount of grain. 

Browsing is fun for all ages! 

5. Make changes slowly. All dietary changes for goats (or any animal) should be made slowly. Goats have a delicate digestive system and can suffer from dangerous and potentially deadly bloat is they are transitioned from one diet to another too quickly. If your goats have not previously been on pasture, introduce them gradually by allowing them to be out for 30 minutes to an hour the first day and increasing that time by 30 minutes to an hour each day until they are spending the entire day on pasture. At that point you can continue to lock them in the barn at night for increased safety or you can allow them to remain out 24/7 as long as they have appropriate shelter available. Always provide your goats with free choice baking soda to settle their rumen if it becomes upset. They will eat baking soda instinctively if they need to alter their rumen ph. Also know the signs of bloat and be prepared to treat it. If your goats seem a little off after a change in feed but aren't showing signs of bloat yet, massage their left side (the location of the rumen) until they begin to burp and pass gas. Some loose stool after the introduction to new, rich forage is not something to be concerned about unless it is excessive or does not go away. Just limit their time out a little and increase it more slowly and their stool should return to normal within a day.

Goats will eat many weeds that other species, like horses, typically will not. 

Bonus! 

6. Check your pastures for toxic plants. The toxicity of many plants for goats is debated. Many, including myself, believe that the level of exposure greatly impacts whether or not some types of plants thought to be toxic will harm your goats. However, you should be aware of toxic plants in your area and know that some -- like Yew or the leaves of stone fruit trees (cherry, peach, plum) -- are deadly even in small amounts. Watch out for these plants and do not graze goats in areas that contain them. Also beware of leaving your goats on pasture too long, because the plants they might have avoided eating at first -- which may or may not be toxic to them -- will become more appetizing as the other options diminish. Fiasco Farms website has a good article on toxic plants. You can check with your extension office or do a search to find what toxic plants are native to your particular area. Do not allow people to feed your goats clippings (and avoid doing so yourself) unless you are absolutely sure that the plant is safe.

Having pasture-based goats is very simple once you are set up for it. It's truly a natural lifestyle for the goats, and they will be very content when eating browse. Even though you should provide grass hay during the summer for them to munch during barn rest or rain (goats need to eat frequently to keep their rumen going), they will eat very little when they have ample browse. You may even be surprised to find that your milking does voluntarily eat less grain when they are on pasture! :)

A Surprise Addition

We had a week of stormy weather here in the beginning of June. Thankfully it wasn't severe, but of course animals who are afraid of storms do not know that. It was during one of these storms that my mom found a little brindle and white dog running the roads, terrified, and brought her home.

We posted about finding her in various places, looked for "lost dog" signs, called the vet and the shelter, checked her for a microchip, and asked at houses near where she was running, but nothing ever came of it. Because of her extremely fearful attitude and the fact that she got readily into Mom's car when she stopped but was afraid to get in it to go the vet, we believe that she may have been dumped.

Eventually we came to the decision that we might as well keep her. What's one more, right? She has also gotten slowly more used to us, and it would be a huge upset for her to be moved into another home and out of ours. When our Collie mix Sophie met her, it was obvious that she wanted to play, but the little girl didn't seem so enthused. I made a joke referencing that old Loony Toon's episode (which was referencing Of Mice and Men): "I will name him George, and hug him, and pet him, and squeeze him..." And thus the little dog became "Georgie."

Georgie is still very fearful, but is not aggressive or a fear biter. She is also a little thin, but she is eating well and should gain some weight soon. She still spends most of her time hiding, but she gets along with our other critters and is sweet when she interacts with us. She is, however, more afraid of Dad than of Mom and I. We have to wonder if perhaps she was abused by a man at some point based on her attitude. Lavender aromatherapy does seem to help her, as does giving her treats (of course!). The vet has cleared her health and believes that she is between two and four years old, but closer to two. We hope that she will continue to improve and meld into our family with time.

Update: Unfortunately, we need to find a new home for Georgie. See this post.

Dehydrated Honeysuckle and Homemade Ice Cream

Happy Memorial Day, everyone! I must begin by saying thank you to all those who serve or have served and their families. Thank you for your sacrifices!

We accomplished much this weekend. A new area of pasture is nearly fenced in for the goats and the horse (with the bonus effect of keeping the chickens out of our garden). I have to give all credit for this one to my parents. I was out long enough to hold a post for a few seconds and take some pictures, but then I had to call it quits.

Be sure to enlist the help of your trusty canine companions when fencing.

Why, you ask? I was stung by a bee the day before yesterday. I had finished putting up the milk and was back down at the barn when a bee stung the inside of my ankle for seemingly no reason. It left behind its stinger (which was a first for me) so I hobbled quickly to the house. Being the big baby that I am, I found my mom and said, "I need you to get the stinger out of my leg!" I don't think we fully succeeded. Mom finally got the venom sac off, and I removed part of the stinger, but I believe a small amount stayed embedded. I guess my body will expel it like a splinter, or perhaps my ankle will never be useful again. We'll see.

I saw some blackberry action while I was hobbling around outside.

I thought that maybe the sting wouldn't be so bad. It appeared to be a normal welt the first day. Yesterday, however, my ankle swelled almost double the size of my other ankle and became painful, particularly when walking or standing. So there was no fencing help to be had from me. As I type this, my ankle looks like a pregnant woman's who has been eating straight salt. But I always try to remind myself in frustrating situations like these, "if this is the worst thing you have to deal with today, you're one of the lucky ones." And it's true.

This little patch of garden is coming along nicely as well.

I managed, pre-sting, to collect a fair amount of honeysuckle blossoms (though not as many as I needed) for dehydrating.

I have a couple of projects in mind if I can collect enough blossoms before the vines stop blooming. Honeysuckle has long been a favorite of mine. Smelling it on the breeze is one of the best parts of summer. Unfortunately, the dehydrated flowers don't seem to have much of a smell, but they retained their color beautifully.

If you try this at home, be aware that the blossoms are very delicate. It takes a very short time in the dehydrator for them to be done. Also cut off the little green nibs at the bottom of the blossom before dehydrating.

I also made homemade ice cream in our new ice-less ice cream machine. Neither rain nor sleet nor sting of bee shall keep me from my ice cream! I adapted a simple recipe from Deborah Niemann of Antiquity Oaks. Her original recipe calls for one quart of Nigerian Dwarf milk, 2/3 cup pure maple syrup, and four egg yolks. I don't have enough ND milk on hand, so I subbed our raw cows milk (which we buy - no cows here...yet), and I also added the scrapings from the inside of a vanilla bean and a dash of our homemade vodka vanilla extract.

Nigerian Dwarf milk is super high in butterfat. Their average is 6-7% butterfat. Compare that to an average of 3-4% for standard dairy goats, 4.9% for Jersey cows, and 2.5-3.6% for Holsteins. With this in mind, in the future I would replace a portion of milk with straight cream when making the recipe with cow's milk, just to achieve that smoother, creamier texture. I also found that I added a bit too much vanilla, giving it an "artificial" flavor -- even though there is nothing artificial about it! I will also change my technique. Deborah's original recipe calls for simply whisking everything together and bringing to a boil, but I found that some of my yolks curdled and I had to strain the mixture before chilling. That might have been because I used refrigerated eggs; most of the time, those of us with chickens don't bother to refrigerate our eggs unless they're being sold.

Here's the modified recipe:

1 quart milk, Nigerian Dwarf preferred -- consider substituting some milk with cream when making it with other types of milk
2/3 cup pure maple syrup (go for grade B for the best nutritional value!)
4 egg yolks
Pinch of salt (I prefer Himalayan Pink or Celtic)
Scrapings of one vanilla bean, if desired

Combine milk, vanilla bean, and maple syrup in saucepan on stove and heat slowly. Don't allow it to boil yet. Temper your egg yolks by adding a small amount of the warmed mixture to them and stirring thoroughly. Slowly whisk yolks into main mixture and then bring slowly to boil, stirring frequently and not allowing to stick. When cool, pour off through a strainer and chill for at least a few hours (this will keep your ice cream barrel colder longer. If you use an ice and rock salt mixer, you may omit this step in a pinch, but it will take longer to become ice cream nonetheless). Follow your ice cream maker's instructions for preparing. I prefer to stick my finished ice cream in the freezer to allow it to thicken even more before eating.

The ice cream will taste like maple syrup - which is a good thing if you asked me! - but you can substitute other sweeteners if you're not a fan. Honey would be another natural option, but would have a milder flavor. You can experiment with toppings and add-ins. I plan to swap out the maple syrup for honey and infuse a cinnamon stick into the base next time I make it...and maybe the time after that I will pour in homemade cajeta as it mixes. Yum. :)

Announcing Our New Newsletter!

Announcement! I have started a newsletter for the friends and customers of the farm. The current one, which I just sent out yesterday, can be seen here (though if you've been following along here or on Facebook, it doesn't contain anything you don't already know): http://eepurl.com/Vf2tz

The newsletter is going to be sent out a few times a year. A schedule hasn't been determined yet, but it won't be more frequently than once a month at most. The purpose of the newsletter is to update our friends and customers on the important goings-on of the farm as well as new products we may have available (soap should be restocked fully in time for the holiday purchasing season, hint hint). I wanted to start the newsletter as a more personal way to connect. Posts on Facebook and the blog are easily missed; if you don't look at just the right time you may not see them. A newsletter, on the other hand, is sent directly to your inbox and can't be missed as easily. I also feel the a newsletter provides a more personal touch. I know exactly who the email is sent to, whereas here or on Facebook I could be talking to anyone or no one. Perhaps it is only in my mind, but I feel like I'm engaging in a conversation when I write a newsletter. When I write a blog post or Facebook update, I always feel that there is the potential for conversation but never know for sure if anyone is seeing it.

So if you want to be "in the know" and not miss anything important, sign up for the newsletter! You can do so by submitting your name and email in the first form on this page -http://www.tiramarfarms.com/#!contact/c15u8 or by sending me your email and letting me enter it manually. Alternatively, there is also a subscribe button in the top left corner of the newsletter itself.

If you are unsure if this newsletter is something you will enjoy, I encourage you to give it a shot -- there is no long term commitment. You can unsubscribe at any time. See you in your inbox! 

20 Happy Things

Inspired by a blog post over at Antiquity Oaks, I have decided to make a list of 20 things that make me happy (in no particular order).

1. Sunday afternoon naps

2. Polled kids -- less disbudding!

3. Time spent with family

4. Beautiful spring flowers

4.5 Which sometimes hide little critters

5. Those special animals that sneak into our hearts (even though it's hard to say goodbye)

6. Unexpected blessings

7. Watching lightning bugs

8. Writing things my heart wants to write (rather than writing for assignments)

9. Baby goats!

10. Really, baby animals of any kind

11. Perfect weather days

12. Lazy rainy days

13. Big thunderstorms -- so long as no one is hurt

14. Connecting with like-minded folk

15. Cold glasses of raw milk

16. Gardens growing

17. Shopping at farmer's markets for local goods

18. Awesome yard sale finds, like old sewing machines

19. The simple pleasure of cheesy grits

20. Finding a good movie on TV

Brownie's Twin Doelings May 9, 2014

Yesterday was a long, impatient day for me as I waited on babies. I noticed Brownie exhibiting the early signs of labor around noon or one in the afternoon. She was nesting, being vocal, getting up and down frequently, her ligaments were completely gone and her udder had gotten huge and shiny.

Brownie's ligaments hours before giving birth.

I spent the better part of my afternoon and evening camping out with her. I realized in the process that I really, really want to get a barn monitor so that I can stare at goats from the comfort of my living room! She progressed pretty slowly through the first stage, which is not unusual. I was starting to be convinced that I'd be camping out literally all night, though. I eventually drove my car down to the barn and waited in it with the window cracked so I could hear her. (My car seats are much more comfortable than a hard plastic chair or the barn floor.) It was about 8:30pm when I posted on my facebook page, "It's going to be a long night. Please send prayers and good vibes to Brownie and I; she appears to be in the early stages of labor." She had actually been in the early stages for a while, but I didn't feel like elaborating at that time. 

Brownie fixing her "nest."

It was from my car, and not long after I posted on my facebook, that I heard a loud bleat. I rushed out of my car right away, because this sounded like a "I'm getting serious" bleat. I could tell at this point that we were getting a lot closer, so I texted my mom that I needed a lantern from the house, because my phone battery was about to go dead and I couldn't keep using its flashlight app. (Did I mention my barn has no electricity?) It took her a few minutes to find a lantern with operable batteries (I should have planned that out better), but my parents got to the barn just in time. They probably hadn't been present five minutes before a bubble emerged. 

Getting a bit uncomfortable!

It was about 9:00pm when the first doe finally made her entrance to the world. I had a moment of panic as she first emerged, because I initially thought I was looking at the head of one huge single. Thankfully I was actually seeing a leg and a head and thinking that the two were just one large head. She was born with one front leg back. My mom -- who has the smallest hands in the family -- was in the process of trying to get the leg out with the nose and other leg (which is the proper position) when Brownie gave a biiig push and out she came. We had to re-position Brownie at this point, because she had gotten too close to the wall and was in danger of squishing her. I began to suction the doe's mouth and nose and rub her down with a puppy pad, but before we'd even gotten the first doe around for mom to lick, the second came shooting out like greased lightning. I opened her bag and began suctioning and drying her as well. At this point Brownie started helping, too, and licking them off. The afterbirth came right behind them, and I knew we were done. I wish I had pictures of the labor, but with no lights it just wasn't possible to get any good ones.

Finding food for the first time!

After giving me nothing but bucks her past two kiddings, Brownie finally gave me does! I was honestly surprised to find that I was lucky enough to get two does and no bucks; that's a dream come true. They are beautiful and healthy, and didn't take hardly any time to find the source of food. It always amazes me how quickly goat kids get up and know exactly what to do to get fed and get moving.

The next day.

Brownie's kids are named after desserts or chocolates, so these were christened Oreo and Cookie. Oreo was the first one out, and she is black with an almost perfect white belt. 

Oreo.

Cookie was the second and is a vary dark brown with white. She has a white goatee that looks like she spilled milk down her chin. (Her registered name will probably be "Milk n Cookies" or something similar.)

Cookie.

One will be available after they are weaned, and it will probably be Cookie. My mom is already attached to Oreo after helping her be born. 

Brownie's udder less than 24 hours after kidding.
(Word to the wise: don't use shavings in a kidding stall if you can avoid it.
Unfortunately we couldn't, because straw prices were ridiculous.)

I also have to say that I am extremely pleased with Brownie's udder and her progress in general. I have never been able to milk Brownie. She was my very first goat, and when I first bought her she was completely wild. The first time we tried to milk, my mom was helping and got her hand gashed open with Brownie's sharp back hooves. I had given up on ever milking her, but Brownie has improved so much over the time that I have had her, and I think this may be the year I finally milk her!

Moments like these remind me of why I love doing what I do.